Good Monday afternoon all! Sitting in my college apartment room in Missouri, looking out at snow and icy rain has me reminiscing to fun, sunny days on warm rock. With those times on my mind, today I would like to share a quick review of a fun afternoon outing; a climb that Hans and I label as the “World’s Greatest Date Climb.” With gorgeous views, absolutely no approach, easy but very fun climbing, and excellent protection; we both agreed that it would be our first choice to take a significant other on a climb (Should a woman ever be crazy enough to put up with our antics).
Playin’ Hooky is located the gorgeous Clear Creek Canyon right outside of Golden, Colorado. With hundreds of crags, thousands of routes containing slabs, overhangs, technical and powerful climbing, all within 10 minutes of an excellent mountain and college town; Clear Creek Canyon is a sport climbing destination worthy of your attention; hopefully this quick write up garners inspires you to check it out!
Quick Stats:
- Location: Clear Creek Canyon, Golden, Colorado
- Crag: Creek Side
- Rating: 5.8
- Height: 400ft
- Pitches: 4
- Bolted Anchors: Every Pitch
- Rappels: Separate rappel anchors, right next to belay anchors
- Link: Playin’ Hooky
Climb Review
Ironically named, Hans and I climbed Playin’ Hooky on a bluebird, early Friday afternoon; Hans taking off the afternoon from work, and me responsibly taking off a few days of school to get some Colorado and Wyoming climbing in. (Sorry mom). We had limited time before we had to pick up our buddy Tyler from the Denver airport and head to Vedauwoo for some good ole’ fashioned type II climbing fun; aka painful crack-climbing. We are glad to have squeezed this fun jaunt in, and thanks to Tyler for waiting the extra hour at the airport so we could get some much needed climbing in, before going on a climbing trip 😉
Pitch 1: Pitch one is good fun, and likely my second favorite of the 4. It changes character throughout, starting with a short section of enjoyable slab, following with a fun roof with massive holds; wandering throughout the pitch length. 3 out of 4
Pitch 2: Pitch two keeps the fun going from the first. A fun mix of easy slab and nice in-cut holds wanders continuously left from pitch one’s bolted belay anchor. Good stuff here. 2.5 out of 4
Pitch 3: The “move the belay to avoid rope drag pitch.” This pitch isn’t much of anything; an awkward mantle-type move off the below is followed by essentially walking up a gully to the next below; so that the final pitch does not have heinous rope drag. 1 out of 4
Pitch 4: The money pitch! After the disappointing third pitch, get psyched for the last one! From the belay anchor, move just slightly left and head up the bolt line to the top of the wall. Fun, delicate climbing is the name of the game for the majority of the pitch until reaching the final few feet where the angle kicks back, but wonderful jugs and rails abound on the step section to keep the climbing easy. Top out, set up an anchor, and enjoy the views! 4 out 4
On the climber rating scale of “Avoid” to 4, I give Playin’ Hooky a solid 3 out of 4. This is a must-do route if in Clear Creek Canyon for climbers of all abilities; those new to climbing will enjoy the fun moves and beautiful environment, at an approachable grade. We agreed that this would be a good candidate for a first multipitch for a climber. For those climbing harder grades, this route is a great option for a rest-day while in the area; as you can cruise up quickly.
Personal Review: 3/4 stars
Adam’s Warnings
This route is exceedingly safe; well-bolted with modern hardware, excellent belay and rappel anchors, and good rock. Do beware that this route is insanely popular, possibly the most popular multipitch route in Colorado. Be patient as there will be climbers of all levels enjoying the route and wear a helmet in case inadvertently dislodge rocks.
Adam
Alpine Experiences 